Most filmmakers are well versed on the iconic Super 16mm film format, but few have even heard of its younger cousin – Ultra 16mm. Both formats share a lot of similarities, but if you are considering shooting on film or converting an existing 16mm film camera, there are some notable differences to take into account.
Initially, 16mm film and cameras were designed to capture images in a 4:3 aspect ratio. That was more than enough for documentary, broadcast, industrial, or home movie purposes. But as widescreen grew in popularity, eventually there was a need to shoot wider aspect images on the 16mm format.
Thankfully, Cinematographer Rune Ericson came along in 1969 and figured out how to do just that. He used single perf 16mm film (with sprocket holes only on one side), and modified the camera so it could make use of this extra space on the film.
This resulted in a native 1.66 aspect ratio, noticeably wider than 4:3 (1.33) aspect, and much better suited for widescreen work. It could be more easily cropped to the standard 1.85 without losing nearly as much resolution.
From there, the rest is kind of history. Super 16mm became a professionally viable format and of course has since been put to use on countless features, television series, commercials and other projects.
The Invention of Ultra 16mm
Back in 1996, cinematographer Frank G. Demarco was shooting tests for Darren Aronofsky’s first feature film Pi, and subsequently invented a new format.
Rather than widening the camera’s gate only on one side (as was done with Super 16mm conversions), he widened both sides, left and right. This allowed the camera to capture exposure on more of the film stock by using the area in between the perforations.
The mount didn’t need to be shifted/re-centered (as with Super 16mm conversions), which made it simpler to modify and maintained compatibility with existing standard 16mm lenses. This was in contrast to Super 16mm cameras which would vignette when paired with some standard 16 lenses.
And best of all, the Ultra 16mm conversion resulted in a native 1.85 aspect ratio. Not as tall as the 1.66 aspect offered by Super 16mm cameras, but a little wider.
Here’s a rough visual representation of Standard vs. Super Vs. Ultra 16mm –
Ultra 16 never quite took off the way Super 16mm did. For many cinematographers, it felt silly to experiment with this new format which wasn’t yet battle tested, only to trade off some vertical resolution for horizontal. Finding people to service Ultra 16mm cameras or labs to scan the footage were big issues too.
25 Years Later…
With a few notable exceptions, Ultra 16mm has generally flown under the radar for the past (almost) 25 years since it was first introduced. That said though, I wouldn’t be surprised if it starts to re-surface, especially now that the popularity of shooting on film has yet again increased.
There’s no question that Super 16 is still the go-to format among cinematographers who shoot 16mm film. Those who already own Super 16mm cameras have no reason to ever modify to Ultra 16, and they are still in high demand even as rental items.
But for someone like myself who has only more recently invested in a Standard 16mm body, the Ultra 16mm conversion offers some distinct advantages…
The biggest being cost savings. I recently inquired with a few shops about converting my standard 16mm Arri SR II to Super 16, and was looking at $5K – $10K, depending on some variables. This would cover the modification of the camera itself as well as the mags, viewfinder and my Angeniuex 12 – 120. And even once converted, the lens would only be useable from 35 – 120, not the full range.
Ultra 16mm on the other hand, would cost just over $1100 to convert because the process is much simpler. Plus, my Angenieux lens would still function perfectly, with no vignetting issues like it would have on Super 16mm.
I had been warned beforehand to be cautious about Ultra 16mm as some labs aren’t able to scan the footage. Without the right type of scanner, they could scratch the areas of the image inside the perforations, making it unusable in post.
But after calling a few labs here in Los Angeles, virtually every one of them was set up to scan Ultra 16.
Knowing that, I decided to pull the trigger on the Ultra 16mm modification. For roughly 20% of the cost of a Super 16mm conversion, I could achieve an even wider aspect ratio, keep my existing glass, and didn’t have to worry about processing issues.
As of last month the camera went out for the modification and will be back in my hands within a couple of weeks. Once it returns, I’ll be shooting some tests that I’ll be sure to share here. I have some 16mm narrative projects in the works too, so lots of screengrabs and footage is coming your way.
Some final thoughts…
There are clear pros and cons to going the Ultra 16mm route, but ultimately for my situation it made sense. Specifically because I already owned a standard 16mm Arri SR II, had access to plenty of labs to scan the footage in LA, and enjoy experimenting.
But for those who don’t already own a Standard 16mm camera, you may be better off simply buying a native Super 16 camera and saving yourself the hassle. There are far, far more of them out there than Ultra 16 (by a long shot), and can often be found on the used market at a lower cost than what you’d pay to convert a standard 16mm camera. Not to mention, the format is standardized among cinematographers, technicians, and labs, which you have to take into account.
Check back soon for some test footage, follow up thoughts and more.
If you have any questions about shooting on 16mm or converting your 16mm camera, leave a comment below!
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25 Comments
Orkan
atGreat article, are there any savings in terms of Filmstock? I remember reading about 2-perf 35mm to save some feet on the stock by shooting exact ratio, but I am bad at math so, maybe you can enlighten me?
best
Julius
atNot everyone can pay 525.00/Hr. for SCANS so I scanned my 8mm and 16mm films at GAMAFIX.lt small company that does this from year 2007. They did the job at a fraction of the cost, and I was very happy to get such service with dust/scraches removal etc. No hidden costs or hourly rates, just a cost for frames scanned plus reel preparation fee made this choice for me.
The Cost Of Shooting A Feature On Super 8mm Film
at[…] stock. And for those who are willing to spend that kind of money on film alone, why not jump to Super 16mm? The cost wouldn’t be much […]
John O Donnell
atI have an old Arri 16 BL and while a conversion to super 16 isn’t really a runner I’m just wondering if a conversion to ultra 16 might be an option? Any thoughts would be helpful.
Noam Kroll
atIt totally is an option, but will be a challenge to find somewhere to make the conversion. Unfortunately I don’t believe Super 16 Inc. is around to do it any more.
Tom
atCinetekpro,com did my Bolex. Do not know if they do arri
Tom
atCinetekpro did an amazing conversion on my Bolex
yes Ultra 16 mm is the way to go
Here is a link if anyone needs it
http://www.cinetekpro.com
Noam Kroll
atThanks for this, Tom!
Yosua
atHYPER 16mm
Instead of runing the film vertically, running it horizontally, with a frame of about 12.52mm x 22.23mm (3 times the area!) parallel to the film, a frame every 3 perforations. (The camera and projectors must be turned 90°).
Hyper 35mm
Doing the above thing with 35mm will give full 24 x 36mm frames like a regular 24 x 36mm SLR camera adapted to be used in movie mode…
Noam Kroll
atWoah – haven’t heard of that before! Maybe time to start working on another article…
Malcolm Brenner
atHey! You stole my idea for 16mm VistaVision! That’s what Fox called a horizontal 35mm system they bought out in the late 1940’s.
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at[…] a year ago I modified my Arri SRII film camera to Ultra 16mm, and set out to take some test shots with it. Instead of just capturing random images, I figured why […]
Mark Mervis
atCurious about scuffs and scratches between sprocket holes because 16mm cameras, processors and telecine weren’t designed to protect those areas as components of the image. Also what about edge numbers and Keycode fairing into the new image area? Because 16SR and CP-16R use fiber optic screens how do you mark your frame lines without spending $1000 for a new focus screen?
Noam Kroll
atYou’re right – it’s definitely a concern. You have to get it scanned at a specific lab that can run Ultra 16, otherwise most of the scanners will damage the image.
Stéphane
atHi Noam,
Can you tell us who did the conversion of your camera and what is your feedback ?
Thank you
Stéphane
Mandelkern
atHi,
Can you tell who made the conversion and what is your feed back ?
Thank you
Jesse Feldberg
atHey Noam,
Where did you get the conversion done?
Noam Kroll
atFrom Bernie at Super 16 Inc!
John Paul Urizar
atSadly I have heard Bernie has passed away .
Noam Kroll
atJust heard that too, brutal news.
Felipe
atIn fact you do loose vertical height. It is possible to crop in post to 4×3, but the area of the film that will be playing is smaller than the area that you get by shooting 4×3 in a standard or super 16 camera.
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at[…] and image quality as this was my first time shooting with the camera since it was converted to Ultra 16mm. I’ve shot with the camera numerous times in 4:3 mode, but didn’t quite know what to expect now […]
Travis
atHi Noam,
Question about the ultra conversion, do you actually lose vertical height from your regular 16 gate or is it just a widening on the sides? Is a full 4:3 still possible after If you were to scan for the 16mm frame or is there less vertical resolution than a regular 16 gate? Thanks much, been thinking about ultra for awhile but would hate to lose the possibility for 4:3!
Noam Kroll
atGreat question. You still keep the 4:3 option, since you are just widening the gate and not moving the lens mount. So anything you scan can just be cropped to 4:3 as if you never had the conversion done. You don’t lose any vertical resolution in 4:3, but you do lose some in widescreen since the sprocket holes prevent you from scanning quite as high up on the film stock as you can with 4:3.
Deni
atSuper 16mm artistically and career wise has been fantastic
Noam Kroll
atGlad to hear it!
Raymond
atI love the format. I had a Bolex in Ultra 16 and foolishly sold it! Now I am looking to convert them to that. I may do the conversion myself. All you are doing is widening the gate, no other work needs to be done. Did you scan to 2K or 4K? Did you do it at Cinelabs by chance?
Raymond
Noam Kroll
atIn my case I scanned to 2K at Spectra Film & Video. But very curious to see what the 4K would like like too!
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at[…] and image quality as this was my first time shooting with the camera since it was converted to Ultra 16mm. I’ve shot with the camera numerous times in 4:3 mode, but didn’t quite know what to expect now […]